Our final Great Walk took us to Stewart Island, New Zealand's third biggest Island. Despite being relatively small compared to the North & South Islands, Stewart Island has a pathetically small population for it's land mass. There is only one town, Oban, which has a population of just 387!
Situated below the South Island, the Maori believe Stewart Island (or Rakiura in their language) is the sea anchor holding NZ in place. This sculpture at the start of the track represents this, as well as symbolising the connections between the tribes and the early settlers.
In part, the walk reminded us of the Able Tasman coastline, only with fewer people and an incessant chorus of songs from the plentiful bird life.
During the first day's 14km tramp, we only came upon one other couple; it was complete isolation in paradise.
The track alternated between lush & dense forest and secluded golden bays.
At the site of the first hut there remained an old rickety wharf, a relic of the days when Stewart Island was a whaling and sealing station...
Freshwater draining over the sand to the sea, leaves stunning abstract patterns across the beach.
The Island's most famous bush-dweller also left it's mark upon the sand. Rakiura is home to the largest remaining population of Kiwi birds anywhere in NZ. Due to low numbers of introduced predators, it is possibly the best spot to capture a glimpse of the elusive bird.
As dusk set in, we headed out again in search of kiwi birds. A small fishing boat in the bay was the only light for miles. With the light fading further, despite hearing the kiwi calls, our search was sadly in vain :-(
We did however have a fantastically clear view of the Milky Way, allowing for this insane photograph of the night sky... the southern cross (the constellation featured on the NZ and Australian national flags) is horizontal in the bottom third of the image.
The meaning of 'Rakiura' in Maori is 'Land of the Glowing Sky'. After the night's shimmering stars we awoke to this dramatic sunrise and the translation became obvious!
The following two days, continued through mile upon mile of completely untouched deep, damp jungle. The remoteness and feeling of escape left us in awe of this untouched wilderness. The trip was completed, when during our last night in Oban, Dave (desperate to see a kiwi) walked up to a nearby clearing where he had an awesome encounter with a very shy local - a wonderful wild kiwi came to check him out and was so close in the darkness that he was pecking at his trouser legs! Incredible!!!
So the challenge is complete, Team Yates have tramped or paddled 592km's (367 miles) over 35 days through some of New Zealand's most remote and stunning landscapes. We have have endured just about every weather system you can imagine, sampled nearly every freeze-dried dinner option available, experienced a multitude of snoring styles, enjoyed the company of like-minded people from a plethora of different countries, attempted to wash in too many freezing water sources and generally had the time of our lives!!! Now how about that for an adventure?
A fantastic achievement and a truly beautiful record of your travels. You're amazingly fortunate to have had the opportunity to have done this - so many people would never have been able to. And those shared memories will be with both of you for life - nothing can take that away.
ReplyDeleteI knew you'd love NZ as Mum and I did, and I've no doubt you will leave part of your heart there - as we did too. It's brought back so many good memories to us as we've followed your travels - we've enjoyed it all again by proxy! We can't wait to see you again now and share all your experiences with you first hand and look at all your photos.
All our love,
Dad & Mum
xxx
Love to read your blog!
ReplyDeleteWe were also up to Isthmus peak, fantastic this view - thanks for this advice :-)
It was a pleasure to meet you, enjoy your further travelling.
Remember for a visit in switzerland: florian-stalder@bluewin.CH
Irene & florian
So proud of you both...an epic performance...glad we could share a little bit with you!
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