A sunny day, it seemed, to start our adventure in Fiordland NP. We took a ferry across Lake Manapouri followed by a short bus journey to reach Doubtful Sound; the remoteness of which fully delivered the sense of isolation we were hoping for.
On reaching the fiord (mistakenly named a 'sound') the weather became more typical of the west coast and the drizzle set in. It wasn't going to dampen our spirits, and instead added to the atmosphere.
This ancient glacial valley flooded by the sea (hence fiord, not sound, which is a river valley flooded by the sea) had steep cliffs rising dramatically from the water, with trees and mist clinging desperately to the rock.
Fresh water running down the cliffs in countless waterfalls, picks up dark tannins and sits above the denser salt water, creating a black oil-like surface. Below deep sea fish 'tricked' by the dark water move through the murk close to the surface.
Our experience kayaking in Canada served us well, allowing us to skim quickly over the mirrored water. It made a pleasant change to let our arms do the work and give our legs a well earned rest!
Our very remote campground was very much a 'wilderness' experience with stunning views and the calls of Kiwi birds throughout the (very dark) night.
We shared the camp with our lovely group of five other intrepid souls... unfortunately we also shared it with a plague of sandflies... one more bite and Dave would have needed a blood transfusion!
Up at the crack of dawn to witness the glassy water... still no rest-bite from the flies (pun intended) haha!
We paddled in the company of seals, two dolphins and a penguin, all adding to the sense of nature. Later, as the wind picked up we had to work hard to paddle against the swell.
As the weather deteriorated further, we headed back to civilisation with just one final glance back down from Wilmot Pass as the clouds closed in. Another incredible adventure in an unforgettable landscape!
