Hue - Central Vietnam

Did you know Vietnam was once three separate countries? The north was called Vietnam, the south belonged to the Khmer Kingdom (now Cambodia) and the centre was the Kingdom of the Cham.

Until their abdication in 1945 this was the Cham royal palace. The buildings, although damaged by the war, still have an extravagant elegance.

We took a boat ride along the Perfume River (not sure we would wear that scent) to a temple perched high on the hill.

Another elaborately decorated building to explore.

This symbol, meaning longevity, seems to crop up everywhere.

It was another scorcher and we were soon desperate for some shade or preferably some air-con.

Under the tree for a rest...

... it was smiles all round!!!

P.S. Wouldn't you agree Mel has aged in the heat?

Hoi An - Central Vietnam

Hoi An is a picturesque settlement in central Vietnam. Away from the hustle and bustle of Ho Chi Minh City, we enjoyed an idyllic cycle ride through the countryside alongside rice fields and past huge vegetable patches.

Later that morning, we explored the old town which holds many treasures, including examples of Chinese architecture such as this ornate temple.

The streets are full of vibrant colours and lined with hundreds of lanterns gently swaying in the welcome breeze. Shop fronts are bursting with goods, everything from fresh fruit to beautiful & skilful artworks, and of course an abundance of various souvenirs and gifts.    

Everything is embellished and adorned with decorative features.... a feast for the senses! 

Once an old port, the river still plays a major role in local life... persistent boatmen pursue tourists in hope of business selling tours, 'Sir, Lady, boat ride for you?'

Meanwhile fishing nets are ever present and rowing boats float idly at the water's edge.

Mobile markets are also a feature; this lady, laden with fruit, posed happily for a photo - happily as she is about to start negotiating how much the photo was going to cost us - clearly an entrepreneur!

The ancient town glows with a warm yellow hue, juxtaposed with splashes of contrasting colour.

If we thought the glow would end with sundown we were mistaken, by night the town flickered with lanterns, bathing the streets with soft light and creating broken reflections in the water...

... where Vietnamese floating wishing candles drift serenely across the inky surface. 

Less dramatic by day, the lantern stalls come into their own each evening. Row upon row of hovering silk orbs entice browsers and aspiring photographers alike.

From the 16th to 18th centuries, Hoi An was a thriving international commercial port for Chinese, Dutch, French and Japanese merchants. Some of the buildings in the narrow streets have remained unchanged for more than a century. Much of the town is now heritage listed such as the Japanese Covered Bridge.

As the evening wore on the streets were left deserted except for us and the lanterns. Moments after taking this photo someone somewhere flicked a switch and we were plunged into darkness. It was clearly time for bed after a full packed day.

Vietnam - Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) & the Mekong Delta

Day One: Ho Chi Minh City, or Saigon as the locals still call it, is a bustling mix of old and new. Norte Dame Cathedral is one of the best examples of old French colonial architecture.

The People's Committee Building is another impressive building, especially when lit up at night.

On our first day we took a tour around the city. The Thien Hau Pagoda is situated in the city's Chinatown. This temple was dedicated to the god of the sea. Mel and the Dragon seemed to get along very well.

We then had a cyclo tour of the Cholon district. Cholon translates as 'big market' and in this area you seemed to be able to buy literally everything!

Fortunately (for both of us) Dave wasn't doing the peddling... in fact the thought of trying to navigate any vehicle on these roads is terrifying! There are thousands of motorbikes and zero road rules!

As Mel's bike headed into the mayhem Dave cowered in his seat (but still managed to take a quick photo).

Day Two: We headed out early to visit the Mekong Delta area, the southern most region of Vietnam. It is often referred to as the rice bowl of Vietnam as it produces three harvests per year...

... the fertile Mekong Delta is also famous or its tropical fruits and flowers.

One of the most interesting sights along the river is the Cai Be floating market. Here local people trade fresh fruit and veg. The colourful boat bows have a distinctive 'eye' to bring good luck; lined up they make a great picture.

We 'popped' in on a family-run pop rice and coconut candy factory to witness and sample confectionary being produced using traditional processes. Instead of 'cottage' industry this was more like 'tin shack.' It was a real eye-opener to see the raw materials converted into delicious goods. 

Next we took to the small waterways through mangrove trees, courtesy of our oars-woman. Mel and our guide Han donned traditional hats as relief from the midday sun: it was 38 degrees C! 

Following our relaxing boat trip, we braved Bing Tay Market. This fresh food market couldn't have got any fresher - everything was alive and wriggling. Dave apprehensively holds a handful of live snakes... eek! He was not tempted to barter on this one!

Back in the city after an exciting day, and there was no let-up in the pace of life around us. Crossing roads here is a high adrenaline activity!

Day Three: The infamous Cu Chi Tunnels are a vast network of underground tunnels that were used by the Viet Con (guerrilla fighters) during the Vietnam war. 

They are impossibly narrow and entering them, especially in this heat, made for a very claustrophobic experience. It highlighted the dedication and ingenuity of the fighters whilst offering a fascinating window into the hardship and traumas of war.

... it also provided an excellent hiding place for peeping!

It has been an awesome few days in a very alien environment. We have experienced new fruits & foods, incredible insights into history and had a big hit on the head with the culture stick. It has left our heads spinning - Great Fun! 

Cambodia - The Temples of Angkor

Angkor Wat:

The largest and best preserved of the the temple complex is Angkor Wat, a World Heritage Site and the largest religious monument in the world.

The size, scale, intricacy and attention to detail of the temples is mind-blowing - especially when you consider their age! This particular temple was completed in the 12th century, but some of the older ones date back to the 900's. 

Despite the temples being a popular tourist destination (2.5 million visitors last year) our local guide was very informative and used his inside knowledge to take us to the most impressive places at their quietest time of day.

Throughout the centuries the Cambodian people have fluctuated between Hinduism and Buddism as their predominant religions. This is apparent through the statues and stories depicted in the stone carvings adorning the temple walls.

This picture shows the Terrece of the Elephants and the surrounding walls of the Leper King:

Bayon (Angkor Thom):

Constructed in late 12th century, the Bayon's most distinctive feature is the multitude of massive serene stone faces that grace its many towers.

This image is found on the Cambodian bank note:

A shout out to our time in NZ... Dave practices a Hongi (a Maori greeting).

The towering faces were incredibly impressive!

Being surrounded by all of this made one feel quite spiritual.

Ta Prohm:

Perhaps our favourite of the temples was the jungle infused Ta Prohm. Discovered by the French in 1914 this temple has been well and truly reclaimed by nature...

... The trees clamber over the stone like melting wax candles.

In the early morning light it felt like we were in a scene from the jungle book.

We were actually in a scene from the movie Tomb Raider as this location was used for filming. This fact is partly responsible for the increase in tourism here.

An unbelievable place!

Banteay Srey:

This relatively tiny temple was completed in 967AD. It is best known for its profusion of exquisitely detailed carvings and is hailed as the 'Jewel of the Khmer Art'. 

Much of the narrative presents the battle between daemons and Gods.

The doors of the temples are built small so that one is forced to bow their head in respect as they enter... despite being respectful Dave was exempt from this action :-(

The craftsmanship was exceptional and required years of dedication to complete. Interestingly, these temples of the Kings were not used while the monarch was alive but were reserved for their afterlife; somewhere heavenly for their spirit to reside.

Preah Khan:

All in all their are over 1000 temples surrounding the city of Siam Reap. We visited just a fraction but each one we saw had it's own character and appeal.

Ta Som:

East Mebon:

Odd numbers are considered lucky, so most temples had three or five towers...

... symmetry is also a major design feature of each temple, architects used the shadows cast by the sun to guide their engineering. This aspect appealed to Dave's OCD nature!

The sights, history, people and food of Cambodia has provided us with an enriching cultural experience. A high bar has been set for the remainder of our Asia exploration. What will the next stop,  Vietnam, have to offer?