Sunday, 24 November 2013

Far South - Rivendell & the Paths of the Dead

Heading south from Wellington, enjoying another scorching summers day, we stop for lunch in a tranquil valley used in part as the backdrop for Rivendell, the peaceful home of the Elf Lord Elrond.


Reaching Cape Palliser, the North Island's southern most point, we realise that we have travelled to all four corners of the North Island: Cape Reinga in the north, the desolate East Cape, Cape Egmont in the west and now Cape Palliser.


The ocean was a deep blue and the sky was so clear we could see the snow capped Kaikoura mountains across the Cook Straight on the South Island!




Around the rocks at the base of the lighthouse dozens of Fur seals played in the water or basked in the sun. 


Wild flowers crammed the shore line making a wonderful contrast of colours against the sea and sky.


Away from the lights and noises of town freedom camping feels good again, and as usual we're treated to a incredible sunset!



The temperature peaked around 30 today as we walked to the Putangirua Pinnacles, the location of the Dimholt Road and the Paths of the Dead in LOTR.


Spires of slit and stones totter and tilt like the broken pipes of a massive organ, the sound was muffled and the heat intense as we walked like miniatures through this otherworldly landscape.



"The way is shut... It was made by those who are dead, and the dead keep it... The way is shut"!!!

Saturday, 23 November 2013

Wellington

The Windy City hasn't lived up to its name, we've had bright sunny, warm days. Perfect for exploring what the capital has to offer...

Our first stop was Weta Cave, one of the World's leading movie CGI & costumes/ prop workshops. We took an informative and exciting tour of the working studio before fighting one of the trolls outside!


The following day we visited Zealander, a valley just outside Wellington that has been fenced off to protect the area from predators, as a result native birds and wildlife have thrived. Below is the Tui bird & Tuatara reptile up close:



A view of Wellington harbour:


Our last night with the Goulds' - it has been an amazing couple of weeks sharing our experience with our friends, they left this morning for their tour of the South Island: we wish them blue skies and calm seas as their adventure continues!


Thursday, 21 November 2013

Tongariro Northern Circuit - 48km (29 miles) - four days (we took three) - Great Walk 3/9

Day 1: The start of our second Great Walk in the space of a week, this one would take us through the North Island's central volcanic plateau: a active volcanic area of towering craters, steaming fumaroles and the ever present smell of sulphur.


High spirits as we set of in the blistering sunshine with Mt Ruapehu, North Islands biggest mountain, in the background. 


A fairly easy 4.5 hour walk to our first hut, Mangatepopo, and some time to get our energy up for the next day which we knew would be much tougher - crossing the Tongariro alpine landscape.


The sunset cast a beautiful orangey light on Mt Ngauruhoe (Mt.Doom) and as we looked out we could see Mt Taranaki silhouetted in the distance. 



Day 2: Up at 5.30am so we could make the most of the clear weather before the forecast thunderstorms put a dampener on our spirits, the cool mountain air quickly blew away the feeling of sleep deprivation. 


As we gained elevation, taking a side trip to the summit of Tongariro, we had fantastic views over the blue crater lake and the black lava flows of previous eruptions.


The four of us were the first to reach the summit and enjoyed a brief rest from our very heavy packs: laden with four days of supplies, sleeping bags and warm/wet weather gear.



We next made our way to Red Crater, it's an active vent of the volcano - the ground simmered and steamed!



Descending from Red Crater, down a steep scree slope, we were greeted with spectacular views of the emerald lakes and the smell of eggs from the venting fumaroles.



Looking out we could see our path winding through a barren landscape: "A maze of razor sharp rocks" - known by us LOTR fans as Emyn Muil.


The weather started to turn just before lunch as we were bombarded by large hailstones...


...thankfully it didn't last and we could enjoy a fantastic spot for our break.


Unfortunately despite how welcoming the lake looks for dipping weary feet it was highly acidic so we kept the boots on!


Perhaps the best views of the day were looking back at Red Crater and Mt Ngauruhoe, the lonely tramper in the foreground gives a good indication of scale.



We had planed to stay in a hut two hours from here so this was our turning point...


... plenty of energy to burn - Dave went for a few star jumps: these he might regret!



As we heading down the mountain the thunderstorms kicked in for real (as a result the camera went in the bag) - horizontal rain, sleet and hail. Lightning flashed and the thunder rattled through our whole bodies! It sure was making us feel small in this huge landscape.


After 8.5 hours of walking we arrived to find the hut pretty full, the only option if we all wanted to stay as a group was to walk another 3 hours to the next hut!!! These four are pretty tough intrepid walkers now though so on we went:- 11.5 hours covering 25km of extremely rugged terrain and we finally made our camp. What a beast of a day!!!

Day 3: Well we had covered all the planned day three trekking on day two so we decided to make our way out of the park a day early and head for Wellington for some R&R, just a 5 hour hike stood in our way.... With such tired muscles and sore feet, five hours has never felt so long! But what a way to compleat the mighty Tongariro Northern Circuit.

Sunday, 17 November 2013

Hobbiton & Waitomo Glowworm Caves

With Vicky & Jordan arriving early we made our way to Matamata, better known as Hobbiton of the Shire! Beautiful weather and rolling hills dotted with Hobbit holes; it felt like we had stepped into Middle Earth.


The hobbit holes are immaculately kept with flowers and plants everywhere: I suppose Samwise is a gardener after all!


Some friendly hobbits came out to greet Vicky & Jordan.


We had intended to pop in on Bilbo Baggins but apparently he was planning a birthday party and we were not on official party business!


Instead we made a trip to the Green Dragon for a sneaky half (they did not come in pints)!



A stunning location and a great start to the time with the Goulds - "we are just about ready for another adventure"...


Up early, (blame the Goulds' jet lag), to visit Waitomo caves. Some amazing limestone formations and ceilings strewn with glow worms.




The glow worms hang threads of mucus down to ensnare flies - not very pleasant but impactful for photographs with the right light conditions:


Also hanging down were some of the most impressive stalactites we've ever seen:



Difficult in the low light to get a photo that doesn't look like we've been superimposed but this was our best attempt...


We couldn't take pictures of the glow worms lit up as they are damaged by flash photography, but if you imagine looking up at the stars as if they are just meters from your face then you'll have an idea:- what an amazing experience.