Nakasendo Trail - The Old Samurai Road

Today we headed to the hills for one last time on the trail :-( It was a gentle three hour trek along the old samurai road known as the Nakasendo Highway, through traditional and remote villages, to the post town of Tsumago.

We were unexpectedly invited into a local's home for a rest and some green tea; the people here are so lovely.

The Nakasendo road linked Edo (now Tokyo) and Kyoto across the mountainous Kiso region. We only walked a small portion of the trail, but it was interesting to witness a more consistently traditional area of Japan.

Our traditional insight continued as we arrived at our guest house to a warm welcome. This is a picture of our room, complete with bamboo flooring and screen windows.

After a home cooked dinner of wonderful local cuisine, we headed into the night air to see the village by lantern-light. This is our guest house: 

The ambient light and romantic setting somehow made the cherry blossoms even more special... :-)

Kyoto - The Cultural Capital of Japan

We next needed to take the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Kyoto. These high speed trains are just that - high speed - they travel at 320km/h (200mph). As we waited many bullet trains thundered past without stopping. An impressive sight, but we had to be quick with the photos!

Many more beautiful cherry blossoms can be found in Kyoto. Japanese poets have extolled their beauty and samurai have admired the noble, short lives of the blossoms. We completely understand; they are perfect!

Being the cultural capital with over 2000 temples and shrines, it's difficult to know where to visit during a short stay. We started with Ginkaku-ji, known as the Silver Pavilion. Set in a picturesque landscaped garden, the architecture was quintessentially Japanese.

Next on the agenda was Kiyomizy Temple. With it's orange facade and surrounding leaves, you could be forgiven for thinking we visited here in Autumn instead of Spring!

Once again, the cherry trees took central stage.

Despite being a large city, with all the mod-cons you'd expect from this contemporary country, much of Kyoto retains it's historical charm.

As the sun set on our first (very action packed) day in Kyoto, we awaited Wednesday with eager anticipation.

Arashiyama Bamboo Grove was something we both wanted to see before the influx of tourists. We got up early in order to navigate the bamboozling bus system:- (by the way that was Mel's joke - 8 months and Dave has created a monster!)

Our early start paid off; we had the place virtually to ourselves. The visual effect of the seemingly infinite stalks of bamboo is quite different from any forest we've encountered...

... there is a palpable presence to the place that is difficult to capture in pictures... we had a go though!

We then strolled through the gardens: deserted and stunning.

Talk about eye candy: the gold plated main hall of Kinkaku-ji (the Golden Temple) shone so bright in the midday sun that we needed our sunglasses to look at it!

Rising over it's reflecting pool, this image is burned into our memories for years to come! 

More than just the month of cherry blossoms, April is also when Kyoto's geisha quarters stage special, breathtakingly beautiful song and dance performances. We were lucky to get a ticket to this popular event, and were even treated to this Japanese sweet with a green tea ceremony... Yum!

The geishas, with their richly decorated costumes and intricate hair adornments, are perfect examples of Kyoto-style grace and elegance. A wonderful cultural insight. 

Hakone Region and the Iconic Mt. Fuji

Time for a more traditional view of Japan, Mount Fiji's exceptionally symmetrical cone is perhaps the most well known symbol of Japan. Team Yates' luck with the weather continues as yesterday's snow in the region clears, replaced by crisp blue sky. 

The area is famed for it's geothermal activity; we visited the Owakudani mountainside where steam vents from fishers, and boiling water seeps through cracks in the rocks...

... It's in these hot water pools that the locals cook eggs until they turn black. It is suggested that each black egg you eat adds 7 years to your life - we picked up a pack of 5 eggs :-)

Mt. Fuji is a distinctive feature of the geography of Japan. It stands 3,776 meters high and on a clear day can be seen from Tokyo City.

We took an old boat on Lake Ashi to view the famous landmark from across the water. With it's snowy cap and the air growing hazy, Fuji practically disappeared, adding to it's mystique!

We are staying at a local traditional guesthouse complete with straw mat flooring, Japanese bamboo partitions and complimentary Kimono gowns...

... we jumped at the chance to warm up in the guest house's natural hot springs. No more photo's though...swimsuits are not allowed!!!

Tokyo - Japan

With over 40 million people, Tokyo has the highest population of any city in the world. Would you believe it when we tell you that it feels like peace and quiet after Vietnam? No motorbikes and their incessant horns, instead a highly efficient public transport network makes this urban jungle surprisingly tranquil!

It's still a explosion on the retinas though!!! Neon lights plaster the sky scrapers jostling for attention.

The famous Shibuya Crossing was a must-visit location; hundreds of people wait patiently for the green man before flooding the intersection from all directions.

Away from the crowds Tokyo's history is apparent - these Sake barrels line the gates of this Shinto shrine - Shinto being the original Japanese religion.

We have timed our week in Japan perfectly with the short and very special bloom of the cherry blossom trees. Outstanding fragile beauty.

The locals call it Hanami and celebrate by hosting picnic parties under the boughs.

We thought we'd join in and headed for the food market to get lunch... no idea what we were ordering when we pointed at this food (pancake/egg salad/omelet) but it tasted fantastic!

Dinner time is much the same, not a clue what's going on, but great fun and amazing food!

Back at Shibuya Crossing the masses continued to shop, for us people watching provided the entertainment!

Hanoi:- 'organised chaos'... well, maybe just the chaos!!!

The streets of Hanoi are MENTAL!!! We have seen every road traffic violation imaginable; a family of four on one motorbike - the driver texting, the mother breast feeding, all traveling the wrong way down the outside lane of the motorway, no one wearing no helmets! Crazy! This guy carrying a tree is just the norm!

The traffic never stops; red lights are just for show, it all results in making crossing the road a seriously adrenalin pumping activity: this long exposure shot catches the never ending blur of movement!

Our last night in Vietnam :-( We took to the narrow streets to undertake another risky activity; a tour of Hanoi street foods!

On the street corner colourful kebabs lay in on display. You chose with your eyes... sometimes it's better not to know what exactly it is that your eating!

We then set about cooking the skewers ourselves, with the help of our friendly local guide Tinh... It was fun all round!

On closer inspection Dave noticed this piece of Quale still had a face... Oh well, when in Rome?

It was a fitting end to a incredible West meets East couple of weeks. Onwards now to our final destination, Japan - what will the 'Land of the Rising Sun' have in store for us?

Halong Bay

Halong Bay includes some 1,600 islands and islets, forming a spectacular seascape of limestone pillars known as Karsts. We spent two days and a night on board a traditional 'Junk' - an old fashioned boat.

Another UNESCO world heritage site; it was a great way to unwind after our time trekking in Sapa.

Covering over 43,000 hectares, the islands went as far as the eye could see, turning bluish as they faded into the haze.

Other Junks joined us in the evening, creating what is known as the 'floating city'. The guests on our boat were good fun and we had an enjoyable social evening with our first glass of wine (rice wine does not count!) since NZ... how have we survived?

A beautiful and serene place; Mel woke early to take part in the dawn Tai Chi session, Dave had planned to, but after the previous night's sleeper train (and last night's wine) his bed was just too comfy :-)